Part II: Kauai

The next morning we got to the airport in plenty of time for our flight to Kauai on Aloha Air. In fact, we arrived at the gate right before the flight ahead of ours was leaving. They told us to just jump on so we wouldn't have to waste our island time at the airport. They told us our luggage would probably be on that plane anyway since we were there 45 min before the flight. I love Hawaiians. So laid back. Sure enough, when we arrived in Hawaii our bags came out within 10 minutes and I met up with Jeremy who was arranging for our rental car.

Our first stop was to the famous Saimin restaurant near the airport. A little early for lunch, but it sounded good.
After grabbing groceries at "Big K" we drove up the Coconut Coast, exiting briefly to see a nice waterfall, and then arrived at Princeville where we had rented a condo. We found our keys in the keybox and opened the door, to the alarm of the cleaning lady, who was actually a teenage boy watching TV whilst changing sheets. Apparently check-in time was a little later.
So, we immediately set out to explore this part of the island, and we fell in love (with the island...we're already in love with each other).

We checked out Hanalei bay and then drove to Anini beach, where we went snorkling in incredibly shallow water, hovering over some incredibly beautiful reef. It was quite a workout trying to avoid skin contact with the sharp reef, but it was awesome to be so close to see intricate details of coral, fish, and some weird sea creatures. There were enormous sea cucumbers all over the place that looked like giant turds.


Our next stop was Secret Beach, which you get to via a trail (~ 1/4 mile). This was stunning in the color contrasts of lava rock, sand, turquoise water and moss. There were a lot of local boys out surfing, but alas Jeremy hadn't rented a board yet.





After our fill of this beautiful, secluded spot, we drove back to Kilauea and stopped by the Farmer's Market for some produce. We bought some papayas, a pineapple, apple bananas, some chard, meyer lemon, carrots, tangerines, and cucumber. It was fun sampling all the produce.
We left the market and drove towards the coast to see the picturesque lighthouse. On the way out there we bought some (still warm) chocolate/ apple banana bread from some locals who were selling it at the side of the road. Yum!
Kilauea Lighthouse:


That night we had a nice meal at our condo of roast chicken (picked up from princeville foodland) and chard with lemon. After dinner we relaxed in the hot tub and pool in the moonlight.

It has been a dream of mine to backpack the Napali coast for years. We decided not to plan for a backpacking trip this time since the weather is so unpredictable and potentially dangerous on that trail in the winter. However, we did plan to play it by ear and if weather permitted we would hike as far as we could in a day. We were pleased to wake up to no rain the next morning. I had packed lunches the night before so we drove straight to the trailhead at Ke'e beach. We picked up some discarded walking sticks as the trail started and set off. After about a mile and a half the rain came. The trail got pretty muddy, but it was a warmer tropical rain and we felt inclined to carry on knowing that tropical rains often blow over quickly. The rain subsided after about 20 minutes.

Jeremy at the start of the hike, with Ke'e beach behind him:


First stop, after 2 miles there is a beautiful beach where there were guys out surfing. The rain had stopped just before our arrival.

Back on the trail above the beach:

View of the surfers from the trail.

Hiking along the cliffside trail. It was breathtaking.





There were incredible views of the steep peaks, with bisecting waterfalls but the bright sun directly above them made it hard to capture a good photo.


The brilliant blue water was just one of the things that made this hike so memorable.



The trail took us across some streams; we had to carefully cross with strategic rock jumping. We encountered some mountain goats along the way. The trail led us in from the cliffs through some thick groves. Around each corner was another majestic view. We turned around and headed back 6 miles in. It was painful to turn around since I so wanted to see the whole thing. Another time, we promised ourselves.

As we neared the more popularly hiked area the trails got worse since the plethora of hikers had made the mud all the more treacherous.

Compounding the nature of the trail, was the fact that with 3 miles still to go, I noticed that the soles of my hiking boots were peeling off. I suppose the mud-clay was sucking them off! Each step was annoying, and scary since half of the time I would step on the folded sole, and the mud was quite slippery. With 1 mile to go I finally lost one of the soles, so basically I had a leather sock on one foot. My poor boots.

We were thrilled at the site of Ke'e beach at the end and quickly made our way to the finish. We passed on our trusty walking sticks for future hikers, changed from shoes to flip-flops, reapplied sunscreen, grabbed our snorkle gear and practically ran to Ke'e beach. It felt so good to swim and get the mud off. The salt water stung the little scratches all over our legs. The snorkling here was awesome. There were great big sea urchins, a spectucular reef (you can see from the trail) just brimming with fish.

After we got back we went in the hot tub for a while, showered and changed. We went to Kilauea Fish market for dinner. Their mahi plate was magnificent.

The next morning after checking the waves (only to find them less than satisfactory) we went to Hanalei Farmer's Market. We bought some more papayas and tangerines, and I got a fresh coconut. After I drank the milk, the guy opened it with a machete and loosened the meat from the shell. I snacked on it the rest of the morning and finished it pretty quickly.


While Jeremy was in line to get some baked goods he heard the lady behind him in line say, "Hey Donovan, you want anything?" He turned around to see one of his favorite surfers (who is also a singer Jeremy enjoys), Donovan Frankenreiter. He was there with his wife and 2 adorable boys, who we later learned were named Hendrix and Ozzy. This guy is a hilarious character, known for his crazy outfits and antics on every surf movie he's in.
I didn't have the guts to ask for his photo:


Since it was rainy, we decided to head to the south of the island. We checked out some beaches on the way down, but decided to venture further south. We went bodysurfing near Poipu and then checked out a remote beach where we saw this monk seal. Monk seals require rest from their journey at sea and when found on the beach they are roped off and protected by law. If they get frightened they will get back in the water, interrupting their crucial rest period. It puts them at risk when they go back out to sea not fully recovered.

We ate a disapointing meal at a Koloa Fish market. Jeremy plate lunch was basically a pile of chicken bones and skin. My teriyaki ahi was okay, but fairly dry.
We made up for the lunch by picking up some melona bars at the local grocery store, pleased to be left with this taste in our mouths. We drove out west and saw some more beaches, then drove back East to Lihue where we swam at Kalapaki Beach and in the Marriott's pool and hot tubs. We drove back up the coast and stopped by Kilauea Fish Market once again to grab some food to go.

The next day we went to church in Hanalei bay. It was a lovely Christmas program. At the end of the meeting the congregation sang two traditional Hawaiian songs for the visitors, one of which was Aloha O'e. Hawaiians are the best. They have beautiful singing voices, and are some of the most gracious, friendly, spiritual people. I know that is a generalization, but every time I go to church in Hawaii, I feel their sincerity in their love of God and their fellow men.

Jeremy was finally found waves at the famed Hanalei Bay. I spent my time reading and swimming. The breaking wave too far out from the beach for me to be able to see him. While I was on the beach, Donovan Frankenreiter and his family took a spot on the beach right behind me. I watched him help his tiny little son catch the small waves breaking near the shore. Once he was pushed into a wave this little guy rode the wave with perfect form. It was so cute. After a little while someone from the surf school asked Donovan if he would pitch in since they had a huge group coming in. I thought it was cool that he was so happy to help kids who had no idea who he was to learn to surf, and he was having a blast doing it. He spent like 2 hours with them.
Jeremy came back in from surfing while this was going on and I pointed it out. Jeremy hung around for a while to rest, and he wanted to meet Donovan. But it was taking too long and Jer was anxious to get back out so he took off to surf again.
Hanalei Bay

It started raining pretty hard while he was out again so Donovan's family fled to the protests of Hendrix, who wanted to fish. I also collected my stuff and ran to the car to wait for Jeremy. It cleared up after 10 minutes or so and I went back outside. Jeremy wasn't too much longer.
On our way back to our condo for lunch we grabbed some highly recommended shave ice. It did not disappoint!
Wishing Well Shave Ice in Hanalei

Every time we drove from Princeville to Hanalei, I was enthralled by the view of this fertile valley.
Taro Fields near Hanalei


After lunch we went to the beach in Princeville where I snorkled, we used the hot tubs and enjoyed the gorgeous sunset. It was the most perfect way to spend our last evening on Kauai.




That evening as we packed our cases, I bid farewell to my beloved boots. They have carried me over terrain all over the world, through some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable. At first I had been upset by the quality of my boots, that they would fall apart so easily. But then I remembered that I had had this pair for like 12-13 years. They have many, many miles. I was quite saddened to part with them.
So Long to my boots:


We woke up early and drove to Lihue where we stocked up on some Hawaiian treats at the local Wal-Mart before dropping off our car and going to the airport. We had originally planned a short layover in Honolulu, but Aloha air cancelled our original flight and ATA rescheduled our one to the mainland for later, leaving us 6 hours in Honolulu. We had changed our inter-island flight to Honolulu to be even earlier, to give us enough time to leave the airport and do something in Honolulu. We opted to rent a car (comparable in price and more convenient than storing our luggage in lockers and taking shuttles).

Jeremy wanted to see me surf again so we went back to Waikiki, where I surfed the break more towards Diamondhead. I had even more fun since there were less people at this spot, and better waves. Once again, Jeremy donned his flippers, camera in hand.
Last hours in hawaii, surfing Waikiki


After a couple hours of surfing we rinsed off at the beach shower, picked up 2 dozen malasadas from Leonard's and then found Kua'Aina Sandwich shop for some fine burgers, followed by Jamba Juice (which carries unique tropical blends in hawaiian stores only). Our malasadas almost got confiscated by hungry airport security, who wondered if the haupia filling might be considered a liquid. I was ready to fight for those things. But they were only joking.
I changed out of my still-wet swim suit in the airport bathroom. Jeremy had already done his magically quick and discreet car-side changing routine.

So long to Hawaii. I managed to eat a whole bag of Island Princess Macadamia Nut Popcorn Crunch whilst consoling myself that we had to leave.